Why Are My Pothos Leaves Turning Yellow? 9 Causes and How to Fix Each One

Pothos leaves turning yellow is the most common complaint about one of the easiest houseplants there is. The good news is that the pattern of yellowing usually tells you the cause. This guide shows you how to read that pattern, check the roots, and fix each of the nine usual problems.

Why are pothos leaves turning yellow? Read the pattern first

Before you water, feed or move the plant, look closely. Three questions narrow the cause down fast. Which leaves are yellow, old or new? Does the leaf feel soft and limp, or dry and crisp? Did it happen over a few days or a few months?

Clemson University’s Home and Garden Information Center names overwatering and low fertility as the usual culprits. The University of Wisconsin adds that an older leaf yellowing and dropping now and then is normal. Most yellow pothos leaves fall into one of these groups.

A quick decision path

The 9 causes of yellow pothos leaves and how to fix each

1. Overwatering and root rot

This is the cause behind most yellow pothos leaves. Roots need air as well as water. When soil stays soggy, roots suffocate and start to rot. Damaged roots cannot carry water or nutrients up to the leaves, so the leaves yellow even though the pot is wet.

NC State Extension notes that overwatering can cause root rot and blackened leaf margins. The University of Wisconsin describes rotted roots as brown or missing. Healthy roots are firm and white to light tan.

How to fix it: Stop watering. If the soil smells sour or the plant is wilting despite wet soil, check the roots (see the step-by-step section below). Trim mushy roots, repot into fresh, well-draining mix and use a pot with a drainage hole. Afterwards, water only when the top part of the soil has dried, as Clemson and Wisconsin both advise.

2. Underwatering

Pothos tolerates some dryness, which is part of why it has a reputation for being hard to kill. Leave it bone dry for too long, though, and it pulls water from its oldest leaves first. Those leaves go yellow, then brown and crisp. Whole vines may droop.

How to fix it: Water slowly until it runs out of the drainage hole, so every root gets wet. Has the soil shrunk away from the pot, so water runs straight through? Set the pot in a bowl of water for 20 to 30 minutes, then let it drain. Drooping vines usually perk up within a day. Leaves that have already turned yellow will not recover, so trim them.

3. Normal aging

Every leaf has a lifespan. The University of Wisconsin says older leaves yellowing and dropping is normal. Is the yellow leaf one of the first on the vine, close to the soil? If new leaves at the tips look healthy, nothing is wrong.

How to fix it: Snip the leaf off at its stem and carry on. Worry only if several leaves turn yellow at once, or if new growth is affected.

4. Too little light

Pothos survives in low light, which is why it is sold as an office plant. Survival is not the same as thriving. In dim corners, leaves grow smaller and paler, gaps between leaves get longer, and older leaves yellow. Clemson and Wisconsin both note that variegated types lose their color in low light.

How to fix it: Move the plant closer to bright, indirect light. A spot a few feet back from an east- or west-facing window works well. Varieties with lots of white or cream, such as Marble Queen, Pearls and Jade or Snow Queen, need the most light. All-green types such as Jade tolerate dimmer spots best.

5. Too much direct sun

Pothos is an understory vine. In the wild it climbs trees in the shade of a forest canopy. The University of Wisconsin says it does not tolerate direct sun well. Strong sun through glass bleaches leaves to a washed-out yellow, then causes brown, papery scorch patches.

How to fix it: Pull the plant back from the window or filter the light with a sheer curtain. Scorched leaves will not heal. Trim the worst ones once new growth appears.

6. Nutrient deficiency

A pothos in the same potting mix for a year or more slowly uses up its nutrients. Where the yellow appears gives you a clue. A University of Delaware extension factsheet explains that plants can move nitrogen, potassium and magnesium from old leaves to new ones. So shortages of these show up first on older leaves.

Iron and several other nutrients cannot be moved. Shortages of these show up first on new growth. The same factsheet notes that iron becomes unavailable to roots when soil pH is alkaline, even if iron is present.

How to fix it: Clemson recommends a houseplant fertilizer every other month in spring and summer. Wisconsin and NC State advise skipping winter, when growth slows. Follow the label. If yellowing continues after feeding, check the roots, because rotten roots cannot absorb nutrients however much you add.

7. Too much fertilizer and salt buildup

More feeding is not better. Extra fertilizer leaves salts in the soil that draw water away from roots and burn them. The University of Wisconsin lists salt buildup from excess fertilizer as a cause of yellow leaves with blackened margins or tips. You may also see a white crust on the soil surface or the pot rim.

How to fix it: Flush the soil. Water slowly with plenty of plain water, letting it drain fully, and repeat a couple of times. Scrape off any crust. Wait at least a month before feeding again, and then use the label rate or less.

8. Cold and drafts

Pothos is tropical. Clemson gives an ideal range of 60°F to 70°F at night and 70°F to 85°F by day. The University of Wisconsin notes that low temperatures or sudden drops cause brown patches on leaves. The RHS rates it H1B, meaning it needs at least 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F).

How to fix it: Move the plant away from cold windowsills in winter, exterior doors and air conditioning vents. Clemson also warns against heating vents, which dry out leaves. Cold-damaged leaves will not recover, but the plant usually does once it is warm again.

9. Pests

Clemson calls pothos generally pest-free indoors, but not immune. The University of Wisconsin and NC State name mealybugs and scale as the most common pests. Spider mites also appear, especially in dry air. They feed on sap, which leaves fine yellow speckles. Mealybugs and scale also leave sticky honeydew, which can grow black sooty mold.

How to fix it: Isolate the plant from your others. Wipe leaves and stems with a damp cloth, and pick off mealybugs and scale. Wisconsin suggests thorough cleaning and insecticidal soap for spider mites. Follow the product label, and repeat over several weeks to catch new hatchlings. Wisconsin notes that badly infested plants are often easier to replace. Taking clean cuttings is a good middle path.

How to check pothos roots, step by step

If you suspect overwatering, a root check gives you a clear answer in about ten minutes. Pothos recovers well, so it is worth doing.

1. Prepare. Lay down newspaper, and have clean scissors, fresh potting mix and a pot with a drainage hole ready. Wear gloves if your skin is sensitive.
2. Remove the plant. Tip the pot sideways and ease the root ball out. Squeeze a plastic pot to loosen it.
3. Shake off old soil. Gently loosen the soil so you can see the roots.
4. Sort the roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale. Rotten roots are brown or black, mushy, and may slide off when pinched. A sour smell is another sign.
5. Trim. Cut away all rotten roots with clean scissors. Clean the blades between cuts.
6. Repot. Use fresh, airy, well-draining mix. If you removed a lot of root, use a smaller pot, which dries faster.
7. Water lightly and wait. Then let the top of the soil dry before watering again.
8. Save a backup. If most roots are gone, take healthy stem cuttings with at least one node each, as Clemson advises. They root readily in water.

[PHOTO: Side-by-side close-up of healthy pale pothos roots and dark rotted roots on newspaper.]

Yellow pothos leaves after repotting or moving

A pothos sometimes drops a yellow leaf or two in the weeks after a change. Repotting disturbs fine roots, and a new spot brings different light, warmth and humidity. The plant adjusts by shedding a few older leaves. This is usually temporary.

Give it bright, indirect light, water only when the top of the soil dries, and hold off on fertilizer for about a month. If yellowing keeps spreading after three or four weeks, work through the decision path above. The new pot may be too large or the new mix may be holding too much water.

Light needs differ by variety

Not every pothos wants the same spot. Clemson’s cultivar notes show that the more white or cream in a leaf, the more light it needs. Less green means less chlorophyll to make energy. Match the plant to the room to avoid pale, yellowing growth.

Should you cut off yellow pothos leaves?

Yes. A leaf that has turned fully yellow will not turn green again. Removing it tidies the plant and lets you see whether new yellowing appears. Cut the leaf stem close to the vine with clean scissors.

Leaves that are only partly yellow can stay until you fix the cause, since they still make some energy. Trimming long, bare vines also encourages fuller growth. The RHS recommends tip pruning in spring to promote branching, and every healthy cutting can become a new plant.

Pothos care basics that prevent yellow leaves

Most yellowing comes from small gaps in care. The pothos is Epipremnum aureum, a member of the arum family (Araceae). NC State Extension lists its origin as the Society Islands in the South Pacific. It is sold as golden pothos, devil’s ivy and several other names.

For a fuller profile of this plant, see our golden pothos guide. If you are choosing a second easy plant, our spider plant care guide covers a pet-safe option.

A watering habit that works

Skip fixed schedules. In a bright, warm room in July, a pothos may need water weekly. In a cool room in January, the same plant may need it every few weeks. Push a finger into the soil. If the top inch or two is dry, water. If it is still damp, wait and check again in a few days.

Is pothos safe for pets and children?

No. The ASPCA lists golden pothos as toxic to dogs and cats. It contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. If chewed, they cause mouth and lip irritation, drooling, vomiting and trouble swallowing. NC State Extension rates its poison severity as medium and lists people and horses as affected too. The sap can also irritate skin.

• Hang pothos high or place it on shelves pets cannot reach.
• Pick up fallen leaves, which are tempting chew toys.
• If a pet chews pothos, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.
• If a child swallows part of the plant, call Poison Control (1-800-222-1222 in the US).

Does pothos purify the air?

Pothos is often sold as an air-purifying plant. That claim traces back to a 1989 NASA study that tested plants in small sealed chambers. Homes are not sealed chambers. A 2019 review by Drexel University researchers Cummings and Waring analyzed decades of these studies. It concluded that normal ventilation removes indoor pollutants far faster than potted plants. You would need impractically large numbers of plants to match it.

So grow pothos because it is beautiful and easy, not as an air filter. Our article on indoor plants and wellness looks at what the research does and does not support.

Common mistakes that turn pothos leaves yellow

1. Watering on a schedule. Water when the soil is dry, not because it is Sunday.
2. Pots without drainage. Decorative pots without holes trap water. Use a plastic nursery pot inside them and empty the outer pot after watering.
3. Feeding a sick plant. Fertilizer cannot help rotten roots and may burn them further. Fix watering first.
4. Moving it to direct sun to “help”. Bright but indirect light is the target.
5. Repotting into a much bigger pot. Extra soil holds extra water. Go up only one size.
6. Ignoring winter. Growth slows, so the plant needs less water and no fertilizer.
7. Treating every yellow leaf as a crisis. One old leaf now and then is normal aging.

Your first step today

Before you do anything else, push a finger two inches into the soil and lift the pot to feel its weight. Wet and heavy means stop watering and check the roots. Dry and light means water thoroughly. That one check solves most yellow pothos problems.

For more plant guides, browse our houseplant and garden articles.

Sources

1. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden Information Center. How to Grow Pothos Indoors: Care, Cultivars and Common Problems. hgic.clemson.edu
2. University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension. Pothos, Epipremnum aureum. hort.extension.wisc.edu
3. NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Epipremnum aureum. plants.ces.ncsu.edu
4. Royal Horticultural Society. Epipremnum aureum (golden pothos). rhs.org.uk
5. ASPCA Animal Poison Control. Golden Pothos. aspca.org
6. University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. Identifying Nutrient Deficiencies in Ornamental Plants. udel.edu (PDF)
7. Cummings BE, Waring MS. Potted plants do not improve indoor air quality: a review and analysis of reported VOC removal efficiencies. Journal of Exposure Science and Environmental Epidemiology, 2020 (online 2019). Summary: Drexel University
8. Wolverton BC, Johnson A, Bounds K. Interior Landscape Plants for Indoor Air Pollution Abatement. NASA, 1989.